Roksanda Ilinčić often seeks inspiration in the art world – and this season was no different. For autumn/winter 2025, she looked at the work of British artist Phyllida Barlow, who sadly died in 2023 at the age of 78. “The ethos of her world keeps coming back in one shape or form for my collections,” the designer says in a preview, a few days ahead of her show held in London’s brutalist landmark, Space House.
It was Barlow’s Tate Britain exhibition from 2014 – featuring vast sculptures made from everyday materials that are typically discarded (think: timber, cardboard, polystyrene, textiles) – that was particularly influential for Ilinčić’s latest collection. “It’s not just about the sculptures; it’s that dialogue between objects that are overlooked, that are discarded, that are considered old and unworthy, and really lifting them to something that is so beautiful,” the designer explains.
One particular sculpture by Barlow, comprising a series of old sponges, inspired the dramatic showpieces that feature this season, made using sponge material – featuring Roksanda’s trademark use of bold colour and print – that the team had leftover from spring/summer 2023. “I tried to take [Barlow’s] ethos of using discarded materials, fabrics, and create something very sculptural, almost a cross between sculpture and garments,” Ilinčić says. “That’s how the whole collection started.”
Fluid silk-georgette dresses were also formed using archival fabrics from the Roksanda studio, while the fil coupé dresses, with the threads left hanging loose, were inspired by the textural nature of Barlow’s artwork, too. Through these designs, Ilinčić wanted to stress that sustainability is an imperative. “I think it’s very important to consider the planet, consider what’s happening with the fashion industry,” she says, “and just take some small steps for positive change. I think it’s important that we educate our consumers about it as well.”
As Ilinčić prepares to celebrate the 20-year anniversary of her eponymous brand next season, she appears to be in a reflective mood. “What’s important to have in this crazy world of fashion is longevity,” she says. Just like Barlow’s sculptures continue to inspire, so will Roksanda’s cerebral approach that merges the worlds of fashion and art.
