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Bronzer is one of the most underrated products in your make-up bag. When used correctly it adds more than a hint of a tan; brightening the face, adding a healthy radiance, carving out cheekbones and even defining a jawline. But the key to the versatility of this product lies in the application. I spoke to make-up artist Caroline Barnes for her top tips…
Get the right formulation
Caroline tells me you need to know when to use powder and when to use cream textures. Powder is best for oilier skin when you already have some base make-up on, as you can use it to set the look. Do not use powder bronzer on damp skin as it can stick and looks grubby and patchy rather than soft-focused. Cream is ideal for when you want a sheer finish or dryer skin that needs a lift.
Choose the right brush
For powder bronzer, use a large, soft, fluffy brush for finer distribution all over.
With creamy bronzers, you can use your fingers if you choose, but Caroline finds it best to use a dense foundation brush rather than a fluffy one, as with cream textures you tend to lose the product in the bristles.
The main takeaway is the bigger the brush, the lighter the dispersion of product
Pick the right shade
As a guide, Caroline says that bronzer should be two to three shades darker than your own skin tone. If you go too dark it’s hard to blend the pigment into your skin convincingly.
The magic ‘three’
Instead of buffing it over your whole face, leaving a muddy mess, apply bronzer in the shape of a 3. Starting at the top of your forehead, bring down to underneath the cheekbone, then finish at the bottom along the jawline. That’s the simplest and quickest way to sculpt and glow.
Got a fivehead rather than a forehead? If you’ve got a higher forehead, focusing bronzer at the top near your hairline and blending out is the best way to trick the eye and making it look smaller. Caroline’s trick for application is to imagine yourself wearing big sunglasses, and leave that orbital area free of bronzer. She tells me that where she would put concealer or highlighter is not where bronzer should be for a convincing glow.
Starting line
Always start at the outside of your face and along the hairline, rather than going straight in at the middle for the smoothest finish and most natural placement. Those areas would catch the sun first, so it makes more sense to focus pigment there.
Always tap off excess product
This rule applies even when not using a powder bronzer. You can tap your cream bronzer into the back of your hand before applying to the face – this ensures you don’t go in with too concentrated product, meaning you can blend out more successfully, and it’s easier to add than it is to take away! Plus it warms the product up so you’ll get a smoother finish.
Don’t forget the chest
Everyone is aware of the dangers of tidelines with foundation, but people forget that a sunkissed glow shouldn’t stop at the jaw. Remembering to blend down onto your neck and chest is key to avoiding a muddy look. Caroline says that a light dusting on shoulders and over clavicles can make all the difference.
Swerve sparkle in summer
Lots of bronzers have shimmer in them. Caroline is emphatic about avoiding these in summer. ‘When the sun is high in the sky and you have lots of glare, the sparkle is too harsh. Keep those for winter. Go for matte or cream bronzers instead.’
Use on your lids
Bronzer is versatile. Sweeping a touch of bronzer over your lids and up towards the brow bones ties the face together and sculpts – just be sure to use a smaller fluffy brush rather than your usual bronzing brush to really get into the crease of the eye.
Blend and buff
This is the most integral thing to remember. You want bronzer to be diffused rather than concentrated, and buffing out the product is fundamental to avoiding any dreaded patchiness.
Now you’ve got the tips, here are our favourite products for you to play with…
A great dupe of the famous Chanel bronzer.
This last for ages and comes in four shades.
Perfect for sculpting, this is blendable and buildable.
I’m yet to meet a Vieve product I’ve not loved, and this creamy formula is no different.
Delightfully affordable and with a silky smooth texture.
A great selection of shades for darker skins.
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